Velvet and Mohair: The Fabrics That Make Vintage Sofas

Under raking light, a vintage sofa tells the story of its fabric: cotton velvet marks at the slightest brush, while mohair springs back. Understanding this difference is understanding why certain 1970s pieces still look new fifty years on.

Two velvets, two lives

Classic velvet — cotton or viscose — is a fabric with a flattened pile: sumptuous, deep, yet marked by sitting, water and sun. Mohair velvet, woven from the hair of the angora goat, has an elastic fibre that recovers its shape: it is the fabric of theatre halls, of ocean-liner banquettes — and of period high-end sofas, often still flawless.

Recognising it by touch

Mohair is slightly dry and springs up under the hand, with a discreet lustre; cotton is softer but flattens; viscose is shinier and marks the most. Run your palm against the pile: the fabric that erases the trace within seconds is the one that will last.

Maintaining, reupholstering

A soft brush in the direction of the pile, a light steam to lift a seated area, never heavy soaking. For reupholstery, new mohair is expensive — but on a signed piece it restores the furniture's full value, whereas an entry-level fabric halves it.

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